The soft sand. The coastal breeze. The meditative state you find yourself in when you gaze at an endless horizon. In L.A., life’s a beach.
For me, slowing down on the shoreline is best enjoyed after ramping up with a nearby hike. What can I say? I am an altitude addict, an elevation enthusiast, a steep scramble seeker. That’s why I am sharing my four favorite beachside hikes.
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Even though the coast is generally cooler and prime for summer adventuring, make sure to check the weather and consider hiking in the early morning or at sunset to avoid climbing temperatures. And if you have your four-legged pal with you, try one of these 31 dog-friendly beaches in L.A. and Orange counties.
The hike: El Moro Canyon
The beach for cooling down: Crystal Cove State Park
At Crystal Cove State Park, most head straight to the glistening ocean, plentiful tide pools or charming historic cottages. But why not also explore the backcountry trails of the 2,400-acre natural gem? The best option to get your steps and floors in is the 9.5-mile El Moro Canyon perimeter loop, which traverses the park’s rolling hills to the tune of 1,400 feet of gain. You’ll be rewarded with expansive ocean views, especially on the hike’s apex at Moro Ridge, but also shady descents into the oak and sycamore-lined canyon.
To start your adventure, park at the paved lot (fee required) and find the No Dogs trail to the right of the ranger station. There are also three hike-in campgrounds (reservations required) for those seeking a full weekend of hiking and beach walking.
The hike: Nicholas Flat Trail
The beach for cooling down: Leo Carrillo State Beach
Named after the Hollywood actor (Pancho in “The Cisco Kid”) who was also a tireless conservationist, Leo Carrillo State Park is a popular filming locale that has a stellar natural cast, including A-list coastal views on the hike and top-billing tide pools at the beach. At seven miles with nearly 1,700 feet of gain, it’s also a fantastic workout (if you want to shorten the journey, you can make a quicker turnaround via a 2.25-mile highlight reel trek) that starts from the park’s campground across from the beach (free parking on PCH; a fee is required for the lot). Find the Camp 13 trail to the right of the entrance, and pick up a steep 600-feet ascent on the Nicholas Flat trail.
The canyon views are epic as you reach a four-way junction at the top — you’ll be continuing left, but if you’re ready to head back, head right. Regardless, do a quick side trip to the Ocean Vista spur trail, which has a few boulders to perch on while you enjoy the incredible ocean vista. As you head farther inland, the canyon views behind you become more awe-inspiring, but in front of you, Boney Mountain comes into view, including the 3,114-foot summit of Sandstone Peak, the highest in the Santa Monica Mountains.
Continuing on, you’ll be further rewarded with Nicholas Canyon views but also a peaceful meadow and a small pond — this is the turnaround point. On your way back, at the four-way junction, descend gradually on the Willow Creek trail switchbacks and, to get to the beach, head for the marine-mural underpass that leads you to those rocky tide pools, dramatic sea caves and pristine beach.
The hike: Mugu Peak Trail
The beach for cooling down: Mugu Beach in Point Mugu State Park
Mugu, which is likely derived from the Chumash word for beach, is found in the names of a local naval base, a gorgeous cape and an epic, 1,266-foot peak in Point Mugu State Park. Thrill-seekers and those who want a workout should opt to summit the latter before heading to the namesake state beach just south of the trek. Find the dirt lot (free) and the Chumash trail just off PCH and get ready to climb — this 2.7-mile steep (and slightly rocky) out-and-back nets over 1,200 feet of gain.
After a grueling climb that features very few switchbacks, you’ll reach a junction. Both take you to the peak, but the right path is longer and more gradual. If you want to make it a lollipop loop, I recommend going left on the way up and right on the way down to save your knees. Either way, throughout the hike and especially at the top, the 360-degree views of the ocean and the surrounding hills and canyons are absolutely phenomenal.
The hike: Thousand Steps Beach stairs
The beach for cooling down: Thousand Steps Beach
Is a gorgeous SoCal beach worth 1,000 steps? That’s the question beachgoers ask themselves when they visit Thousand Steps Beach in Laguna. The answer is an undeniable, emphatic “yes,” but those weary of a wildering workout will be happy to find out it’s actually only 223 steps down to the 400-yard stretch of impeccable sand. Naturally, the stairs make for a great short workout. Go up and down as much as you please (or as much as your knees can handle), but remember that after that beautiful beach day, a grueling ascent awaits! The tiny treasure in Orange County also boasts tide pools and an awesome sea cave at low tide — and as usual in SoCal paradise, it’s perfect for a relaxing summer day on the sand. More flights needed? Another popular beach-stairs workout is the Santa Monica Canyon stairs, 170 wood steps between 421 Entrada Drive and 526 Adelaide Drive.
Things to do
Join adventure leader Nicole Snell and Black Girls Trekkin’ for a hike up to Josephine Peak.
(Simone V. Williams)
1. Conquer Josephine Peak in the Angeles National Forest with Black Girls Trekkin’. Situated next to the more popular Strawberry Peak, Josephine Peak is a hulking summit that stands prominently in the western San Gabriels. Join an adventure leader from Black Girls Trekkin’ — a group that empowers Black women to “spend time outdoors, appreciate nature, and protect it” — to overcome the challenging 8.3-mile hike to the 5,558-foot summit at 5:30 a.m. on Saturday.
Experience your next urban adventure with CicLAvia’s Hollywood street shutdown this weekend.
(Laura Rudich)
2. “Meet the Hollywoods” with CicLAvia. Join a pedestrian parade of people-powered modes of transportation through the streets of West Hollywood, Hollywood and East Hollywood at Sunday’s CicLAvia event, which runs from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Via a 6.6-mile route on Santa Monica Boulevard, Highland Avenue and Hollywood Boulevard, participants can walk or ride to local restaurants, shops, murals and more to get to know the heart of Tinseltown without automotive interference.
Learn about Indigenous dance performance and regalia at the Satwiwa culture center in the Santa Monica Mountains.
(National Park Service)
3. Catch an Indigenous dance demonstration in the Santa Monica Mountains. Hosted by the National Park Service at the Satwiwa Native American Indian Culture Center, the performances will include various Native American dances, including Northern traditional and shawl dancing. During the Saturday evening event, which takes place from 6:30 to 8 p.m., performers will discuss their traditional clothing as well as tribal history and personal connections. Bring your own chair or blanket. I recommend arriving early — on Saturdays and Sundays, Satwiwa hosts a Native American guest host or park ranger to answer questions and talk about the interpretive displays.
Discover the trails of Idyllwild in the San Jacinto Mountains.
(Vanessa Szeto)
4. Experience a naturalist-led hike through Idyllwild with Latino Outdoors and the Joshua Tree National Park Assn. There are few California mountain towns as picturesque as Idyllwild in Riverside County. Nestled a mile high in the San Jacinto Mountains right on the Pacific Crest Trail, it’s a great spot for outdoor enthusiasts, particularly hikers and rock climbers. On Sunday at 8 a.m., the Inland Empire branch of Latino Outdoors is partnering with the Joshua Tree National Park Assn. to lead an interpretive hike on one of its many trails, geology and pines included. Register here to get the details and sign the waiver.
Discover the winged residents of Crystal Cove State Park via a stroll with a naturalist.
(Matt Pawlik; photo illustration by Micah Fluellen /L.A. Times; Getty Images)
5. Enjoy a bird-watching stroll with a resident naturalist at Crystal Cove State Park. Here’s more admiration for the Orange County coastal gem. Sure, the hiking and beaches are great, but the local wildlife is also wonderful to watch. On Saturday at 8 a.m., join a park naturalist for a summer bird walk that starts at the Bern Amphitheatre next to the park’s campground (parking fee required). During your avian adventure, you’ll look and listen for the park’s winged residents, including but certainly not limited to California gnatcatchers, greater roadrunners and even osprey.
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Hike of the week
Find your beach at the base of the San Gabriels at the Santa Fe Dam Recreation Area.
(Matt Pawlik)
Want to hit the beach this weekend but avoid the Eastside to Westside summer traffic? Stay near the mountains but still put your feet in the sand at the Santa Fe Dam Recreation Area in Irwindale. The 836-acre county park was developed after the eponymous structure was originally built to prevent flooding from the San Gabriel River — now there’s a 70-acre lake, plenty of awesome mountain views and a sandy surprise.
Park at the paved lot (fee required) or bike in on the San Gabriel River bike path and start a gentle four-mile loop on a paved trail heading clockwise around the water. After about half a mile, you reach “the beach,” which features palm trees, soft sand ripe for a blanket picnic, and even lifeguard towers (check the site for swimming status). It’s also a nice perch for bird-watching — catch the usual waterfowl here, like Canada geese, cormorants, coots and ducks, but you may also spy pelicans. The paved path eventually becomes dirt and gets rugged, meandering through chaparral (like laurel sumac, sugarbush and prickly pear cactus) and eventually deposits you at the Santa Fe Nature Center, which houses a brief interpretive trail featuring native flora and detailing the area’s unique ecology, an alluvial flood plain. To return to your starting point, you’ll have to join the bike path, which climbs along a rocky embankment and returns you to your lakeside lot. Talk about a dam good idea!
The must-read
Kjessie Essue works in her flower garden in Taylorsville, Calif.
(Francine Orr / Los Angeles Times)
Everybody loves a comeback. And in California, rebirth from the ashes of devastating wildfires may be the most inspiring. This year’s phoenix may very well be Greenville, a small Gold Rush-era town in the Sierras that was all but wiped out by the destructive Dixie fire last year. Times writer Diana Marcum writes about Barn Swallow Gardens, a blooming floral farm, and its impact on the community and the power of beauty in difficult times. Flowers are symbols of rebirth, after all.
The red flag
A “1,000-year” rain event in Death Valley National Park left cars buried in mud and debris recently.
(National Park Service)
You’re likely expecting me to share the latest wildfire warning or drought devastation here, but what if I told you the latest climate change worry for Angelenos was a megaflood? Times writer Louis Sahagún reports on the latest research from UCLA that states “global warming has doubled the likelihood that weather conditions will unleash a deluge as devastating as the Great Flood of 1862.” The surprising (and scary) findings explain the “whiplash effect” of our heating planet — the atmosphere essentially becomes thirstier and absorbs more and more moisture until an eventual massive release. Study co-author Daniel Swain notes that while plagues and earthquakes are also always on the minds of Californians, the risk of catastrophic flooding has been “rising quietly but steadily in the background.” Let’s just hope we can now be prepared for yet another “Big One.”
P.S.
Hoover Dam near Las Vegas has shrunk during 23 years of drought intensified by climate change.
(Luis Sinco / Los Angeles Times)
Just over a month ago, I shared Times writer Ian James’ report on the drastic lowering of Lake Mead’s water levels — and, naturally, the shrinking of the Colorado River — and subsequent urgent calls for emergency cuts from federal officials to the affected states. James reported this week that, after weeks of negotiations, there still isn’t an agreement in place with state water agencies. On Tuesday, the U.S. Bureau of Reclamation announced new emergency water cuts: Arizona’s annual water apportionment will be reduced by 21%, Nevada’s by 8% and Mexico’s by 7%. The river’s two main reservoirs — Lake Mead and Lake Powell — are now nearly three-fourths empty. As James wrote, “The absence of a deal now raises the risk that the Colorado River crisis — brought on by chronic overuse and the West’s drying climate — could spiral into a legal morass.” Let’s hope it doesn’t.
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